Most plant parts benefit Human both internally and externally and have been used throughout the world.

Our primary interest is about the plant extracts to use for skin care routine and compare Prickly Pear seed oil to other carrier oils.

First, let’s have a look at the skin anatomy of the healthy skin.

THE EPIDERMIS

It’s the outermost layer of skin. It’s covered by a layer of lipids and sweat called the acid mantle which has an acidic PH. The lipids in the skin come from the Statum corneum and the sebum from the Sebascus Gland. The sweat comes from the sweat gland

If the PH  is between 4 - 6,5, the skin is protected from fungal, infection and water loss.

When the acid mantle loses its acidity, the skin becomes irritated, sensitive and susceptible to damage and infection.

Statum corneum is designed like a brick and mortar. The mortar is made of complex intercellular lipids that hold the moisture between the bricks. It maintains the water level below and controls and reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

THE TEWL is the natural moisture flow from deeper skin layers to be lost by evaporation. The bricks form water retaining barrier in the lipid matrix.

Lipids that make up the mortar include:

1- Ceramides ( 40-50%)

2- Cholesterol ( 20-25%)

3- Fatty Acids ( 10-25%)

The mortar serves to prevent water loss and the lipids, and the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the Stratum corneum are crucial in maintaining the water level of the skin as well as reducing the transepidermal water loss ( TEWL).

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF is in the Brick) and it attracts and binds water from atmosphere or products ( such as moisturizers, facial oils, creams) applied to the skin.

The lipids serve to prevent water loss from occurring in the NMF.

Fatty acids ( essential fatty acids and non-essential fatty acids)  in the skin lubricate, soften, protect the skin & prevent moisture loss from the skin.

TYPES OF FATTY ACIDS

-Essential fatty acids: the fatty acids are not synthetized by the body and have a critical role in skin function ( linoleic and alpha-linolenic). We can get them from diet or skin care products.

-The body can produce Non-essential fatty acid.

TYPES OF FACIAL OILS / BODY OILS:

-Nut and seed oils such as prickly pear seed oil 

-Amazonian oils

-Fruit and  plant oils

COMPONENTS OF OILS  AND EFFECT ON SKIN COMPOSITION:

-  A deficiency of lipids in the Statum corneum contribute to dehydrate skins.

- Cause of dryness and dehydration: heat exposure, age, low humidity in the environment, cold heat exposure, indoor heating, diet…

- Factors that can break down protective lipid layers and increase TEWL : long hot shower, chemicals, detergents, sun, skin disorders or skin disease.

BENEFITS AND USES OF CARRIER OILS